Spanish stunner
01-Oct-08 Lucia Cockcroft
Long overshadowed by its more garrulous neighbour, Barcelona, Madrid has come into its own in the past few years. A plethora of style-conscious hotels and world-class restaurants have catapulted the city into the limelight - with good reason.
The number of tourists staying in hotels in the Madrid region grew by almost eight per cent in 2007 to more than 9.32 million compared with the previous year, with overseas tourists rising 11 per cent on 2006, to 3.8 million.
Much of the city's growth has come at the top end. In 2004, Madrid's three- to five-star hotel capacity grew by about 20 per cent, to 40,000 rooms. New or recently built design hotels, such as Hotel Urban and Bauza, have upped the standard of the city's accommodation and brought acclaim from architects and trend-watchers.
The urban renaissance has also permeated the restaurant scene, with a number of world-class Catalan chefs arriving in the capital. There are around 3,000 restaurants in the city, seven of which, including La Broche, La Terraza del Casino and Zaranda, have scooped Michelin stars. In 2007, the number of restaurants climbed almost five per cent, to 8,051.
For many, Madrid's cultural scene is one of the main draws. The city's world-famous art galleries include The Prado, famed for its royal portraits and religious paintings. Modern art lovers can head for the Reina Sofia, while those with time on their hands shouldn't miss out on the Thyssen's vast private collection.
Madrid's new-found prominence has been aided by its airport terminal, Terminal 4, which opened in 2006 with two runways. At capacity, the airport can now handle 35 million passengers a year.
This October will see Lithuanian company flyLAL offer direct flights between Budapest and Madrid, driven by an increase in tourist and business visitors in Eastern Europe. Traffic between Madrid and the UK is monopolised by easyJet and Iberia, though Jet2 started a Leeds-Bradford route in May this year, running four times a week.
Travelling within Spain is also easier than ever before - in February this year, the super-slick AVE started operating from Madrid to Barcelona. The addition to the AVE routes (others serve Andalucia) is part of a 15-year, EUR108bn (£86bn) project to transform the country's rail network.
HOTELS
- Madrid may have lost the final bid to London in its campaign to host the 2012 Olympic Games, but the legacy to improve the city's breadth and standard of accommodation still holds strong. There has been much talk of the city overtaking Barcelona in the trendy hotel stakes - and it's not hard to see why.
- This year sees a flurry of hotel activity at the top end. In June, Hilton's newest hotel, Hilton Madrid Airport (www.hilton.co.uk/madridairport) opened, billed as the city's first upscale hotel serving Madrid's airport. With 284 designer-inspired rooms, the hotel was designed by prominent Spanish architect Miguel Oliver Perez and boasts a 25m high atrium.
- In autumn this year, the Hotel Villa Magna - Park Hyatt Madrid (www.villamagna.park.hyatt.es) reopens after a comprehensive refurbishment. Interior decorator Thomas Urquijo has redesigned the hotel, marrying tradition and contemporary luxury. The gardens will be transformed and landscaped, while a spectacular glass dome will be the corner piece of the interior.
- By the end of 2008, Madrid's latest five-star hotel will have opened - the Eurostar Madrid Tower will boast 474 rooms, of which more than 25 will be suites.
- Design hotels such as Mario Room Mate and Bauza have appeared next to the futuristic Hotel Urban or Zen-like Hesperia (www.hesperia.com/hotels/Hesperia-Madrid/), which opened in 2001, leading the pack of luxury design hotels. The presidential suite boasts a split-level wooden deck with hot tub, tailor-made to kick back and watch the sun set.
- In 2005, one of the city's most lavish hotels, the $94m (£54m) Hotel Silken Puerta America (www.hotelpuertamerica.com) opened on the edge of Madrid. The project involved 12 top-name architects and designers, who were each given a separate floor to design. A twelfth-floor health spa comes with panoramic city and mountain views.
- In the same year, the 201-room Tryp Reina Victoria Hotel underwent an extensive refurbishment and rebranding, re-opening as the Hard Rock Hotel Madrid and managed by joint-venture company Lifestar Hoteles Espana SL.
WHAT'S NEW TO DO
Wine buffs can indulge in a 90-minute tasting session at the Wine Taster's Club in Albadalejo 4, to the east of the city. Small groups sample some of the best Spanish wines, using tasting techniques to analyse five wines from different areas. The $88 (£50) price tag includes pick-up from the hotel. www.isango.com
A hot-air-balloon ride should be top of clients' to-do list. Beginning at 8am, this tour includes a bird's-eye view of Spain's largest bull ring, Las Ventas. Prices start at EUR150 (£121). www.gomadrid.com
A visit to Spain wouldn't be complete without taking in a festival. May and June boast the Fiesta del Dos de Mayo, the Fiesta de San Isidro (heralding the arrival of the bullfighting season), and the Fiesta de la Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida (a traditional dressmaking festival). In October, the autumn festival includes theatre and dance performances, while November brings a world-class jazz festival to the city. www.madrid.eventguide.com
The Thyssen Museum is the newest of Madrid's three major art centres. The 800 paintings trace the history of Western art, from 13th century Italian Gothic to 20th century American Pop. www.museothyssen.org
Clients should visit the Teatro Real, built in 1850, this impressive opera house was only used for this purpose in 1997. The schedule for 2009 includes The Marriage of Figaro. www.teatro-real.com
Spain is all about tapas, make sure a client's tour takes in Las Cuevas de Louis Candelas, the oldest tavern in Madrid, and Los Galayos along the Plaza Maylor. And don't miss the garlic shrimps and Iberian Ham at Rincon de la Cava. www.isango.com
A visit to the Prado is essential for art lovers. Its new extension opened to great acclaim; here you'll find some of its superb collection of 19th century Spanish art Further extensions and spruce-ups are afoot in the Prado's annexe - the Cason del Buen Retiro. www.museodelprado.es
Visit the Atocha Train Station. Built in the 1890s, under Gustave Eiffel's guidance, (of Paris tower fame), this is one of the world's great stations. www.gomadrid.com/transport/atocha.html
BEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE
Royal Suite, Park Hyatt
Client fit: Those seeking the ultimate in luxury and space.
Why: The Royal Suite is claimed to be the largest in Madrid, covering 290sqm of the top floor. It has a 200sqm private rooftop terrace with panoramic views.
Price: EUR12,000 (£9,673) a night.
Contact: www.villamagna.park.hyatt.es
Presidential Suite, Hilton Madrid Airport
Client fit: Those who appreciate style and sophistication.
Why: This 138sqm suite is divided into three areas - reception, bedroom and dining room seating up to 10 people. The green marble bathroom is sourced from India. Price: EUR2,500 (£1,998) per night.
Contact: www1.hilton.com/en_US/hi/index.do
Deluxe Suite, AC Palacio del Retiro
Client fit: Clients appreciating character and tradition.
Why: Located in the circular part of the building at the front of the hotel, the suite retains many of its original features, with beautiful cornicing and filigree work complemented by contemporary furnishings.
Price: EUR640 (£512) per night.
Contact: www.hotelacpalaciodelretiro.com; www.slh.com
Duplex Suite, Hospes Madrid
Client fit: Those who want impressive city vistas.
Why: Each suite has two floors, comprising an open-plan living room downstairs and bedroom upstairs. Guests will find king-sized beds and marble-fitted bathrooms.
Price: EUR750 (£600) a night.
Contact: www.fuenso.com
Damascus Suite, Casa de Madrid
Client fit: Lovers of the unusual and distinguished.
Why: The most sumptuous room, in a hotel characterised by individuality and old-world elegance. There is a strong, homely feel amid all the luxury.
Price: EUR417 (£333) a night.
Contact: www.casademadrid.com
BUYER'S COMMENT
Michael Cullen, editor, i-escape.com
I have three favourite top-end hotels in Madrid. The first is Casa de Madrid, a real gem with just seven rooms in a first-floor apartment opposite the Opera House. It is owned by an idiosyncratic, art-collecting aristocratic lady, Dona Marta Medina, and has personalised service from her energetic English-speaking manager.
The second, AC Palacio del Retiro has huge swanky rooms with high ceilings, parquet floors, ornate cornicing, vast beds, excellent mattresses, Lichtenstein prints in some, Jacuzzi tubs in others. Room 211 is a lovely corner suite.
Lastly, Room Mate Alicia - one of the four Room Mate hotels - has an excellent location on Plaza Santa Ana - near the sights (and sounds) but still off the main tourist trail - and especially its two huge duplex suites on the top floor (each with its own sun terrace and plunge pool). Like its brethren, it has the funky factor in spades.
In terms of restaurants, the luxury traveller has to experience Arola-Madrid in the Reina Sofia museum - clients will need to book ahead as it's still extremely popular. Shiny Ferrari-red decor, futuristic lines and a real buzz - it's the place to be seen, and the food is appropriately stunning and delicious. I also really love Arce, for top-notch Basque cuisine.
As for tapas, it's hard to recommend as there are so many and standards change so quickly, but I've heard good reports recently of El Txoko (Jovellanos 3, Metro Sevilla), and the well-known and still good La Chata off Plazal Mayor.
And finally to sights: clients must try to find time for at least one of the big three galleries - I liked Reina Sofia most, and lost myself in front of Guernica (Picasso's famous anti-war piece). The museum is free on Saturday afternoons. I also love the nightlife around Plaza Santa Ana - quite bohemian, but not too edgy. www.i-escape.com
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Santceloni, Hesperia Hotel
Setting: Established by Santi Santamaria of El Raco de Can Fabes fame, this two Michelin-starred restaurant is a memorable choice for a very special occasion. Often referred to as a 'must do' fine-dining experience, the restaurant prides itself on a passion for local ingredients, bought the same day.
Best dish: Cream of pumpkin with crisp sweetbreads and black olives. Or opt for the tasting menu.
Best table : Any.
Contact: www.hesperia.com
El Chaflan, Hotel Aristos
Setting: El Chaflan is an acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurant with a cool, contemporary feel. An olive tree features as the only ornament in the room, while the ceiling-glazed skylight courts the attention.
Best dish: Tuna belly in sherry sauce or suckling pig with potato and apple puree. Original Spanish cuisine.
Best table : One next to the glass-walled, all-steel kitchen.
Contact: www.elchaflan.com
La Terraza del Casino
Setting: Plenty of casino style here. Famous Costa Brava chef Ferran Adria has gained a formidable reputation in Madrid. The decor doesn't quite match the extravagance of the casino, but the food more than makes up for that.
Best dish: Paella of Kellogg's cornflakes (yes, really) or turron soup with almond oil, scallops and mushrooms.
Best table : Outside, on the terrace.
Contact: www.casinodemadrid.es
Meson de Dona Fil
Setting: Located around 60km away from Madrid, in a mountain range, this Michelin-starred foodie haunt is worth the drive, especially if simplicity and tradition are on the client's menu. Julio Reoyo and Inma Redonda are in charge of the Cantabrian and Mediterranean food.
Best dish: There is no formal menu; only a selection of set dishes that changes weekly. Hope for arroz caldoso con langostinos and tartita de chocolate y vainilla fresca con sorbete to finish.
Best table : A window seat with countryside views.
Contact: +34 918651471
MADRID FACTS
Red tape: Passports must be valid for at least three months beyond the length of stay.
Currency: Euros.
Flight time: Madrid is around two hours and 15 minutes away from London.
Best time to visit: By summer, Madrid is sweltering - temperatures are as high as 40 degsC. By contrast, winters are often very cold. Spring and autumn, when temperatures are in the 20s, are ideal.
Dialling code: 0034
Official language: Spanish.
Religion: There is no official religion, but most of the population is Roman Catholic.
Gateways: Madrid's newly extended Barajas Airport. Internally, there are fast train lines to Barcelona to the north and Seville and Cordoba in the south.
BUYER'S COMMENT
Alex Callahan, purchasing executive, Sovereign Luxury Holidays
Madrid's charms are often overlooked in favour of the more edgy Barcelona. There is, however, plenty to tempt the luxury visitor to Spain's grand capital - revealing itself as an exciting, cosmopolitan city sprouting boutique hotels and gourmet restaurants on a weekly basis.
From priceless treasures in world-class museums and a decadent nightlife, to the designer boutiques of the Salamanca district, this city has something to satisfy the most discerning of travellers.
For a taste of contemporary cool, head to the glamorous rooftop Penthouse bar and terrace of the ME Madrid Hotel to rub shoulders with the beautiful people. Situated on the Plaza Santa Ana, a lively area packed with tapas bars, numerous jazz clubs and trendy bars, the historic hotel has had a sleek makeover and is a firm fixture for visiting celebrities drawn by the 'everything is possible' philosophy.
For a more sedate, but equally stylish, experience, the discrete Hospes Madrid offers an oasis of tranquillity in the heart of the city. This five-star boutique property boasts the bijou Bodyna spa and the award-winning Senzone gourmet restaurant.
For style on a budget, the Tomas Ala-designed Quo Puerta del Sol is a contemporary property well located to sample the capital's culinary delights.
Visit Lavinia Espacio Gastronomico on Calle Jose Ortega y Gasset (Salamanca neighbourhood), and select from the 4,500 wines on offer, before taking a bottle upstairs to the modern Mediterranean bistro.
For a sample of Madrid fine-dining, head to the Michelin-starred Santceloni for its renowned gastronomic menu, or for something different try La Tasquita de Enfrente, a tiny no-menu restaurant off the Gran Via for a taste of 'New Spanish' cuisine. www.sovereign.com
