Land of plenty
17-Jan-08
There are no Indian rope tricks to decipher when analysing the sub-continent's irrepressible ascension as a high-end tourist destination. A resurgent economy and new middle class bent on consumerism have torpedoed the country headlong into the luxury travel market and, as a result, it is no longer just one long backpacker's trail.
According to the latest reports from financial analysts Forbes, the country boasts some 36 billionaires, and it follows that the major cities and elsewhere are evolving to welcome both new business money and the now globally famous Bollywood A-list.
Philippa Kaye, sales and marketing manager for Luxe India, comments: "Where do you start with new luxury products in India? The nation is booming and the country is awash with them. Even living in Delhi and travelling every weekend to find new products, it is hard to keep up."
'Trophy dining', 'living' and 'purchasing' are the new watchwords. In New Delhi, arguably a suitable barometer for Indian life, the first shopping mall featuring solely designer boutiques opened in October 2007 at Select City Walk in the upmarket neighbourhood of Saket. The new Amatrra Spa is taking the city by storm, and the fine dining at places such as Orient Express and Sakura at The Metropolitan is now under the supervision of internationally renowned executive chefs.
The Bollywood playground of Mumbai, the technological boomtown of Bangalore and the historic centres of Jaipur and Agra are all benefiting from new properties and luxury products, mostly supplied by Indian companies keeping international brands at bay.
"International brands will slowly come in," foresees Devika Nanda, Indian specialist and consultant for Ampersand Travel. "But it will be tough competition as the levels are so high. They will not be able to come in and compete with their standard global products - they will need to apply a local touch and Indianise things. That will often mean raising their game. Aman, for example, has done a good job so far."
The Singapore-based boutique resorts company boasts the highly regarded Amanbagh and Aman-i-Khas, both in Rajasthan. Nanda believes Aman has succeeded by meeting the great Indian history of hospitality, where service levels are "often even more than people imagine".
Access options to India from the UK are keeping pace with new demand. Virgin Atlantic continues to operate its successful route into Mumbai, and Jet Airways has recently rolled out exclusive 'private suites' in First Class, as well as new fully flat beds in Premiere (business class). Swiss has also launched a new flight to Delhi (via Zurich) from November 2007. This means that there will be business and first-class connections from London (City and Heathrow), Birmingham and Manchester.
Travel within India is also enjoying a facelift, with the Deccan Odyssey luxury train service and MV Mahabahu river cruise of the great Brahmaputra encapsulating the new wave of high-end options.
Luxury remains characteristically Indian, though, as Nanda points out: "As with most destinations, luxury in India often means detaching yourself from the reality of the country a little bit, but India has such an arsenal of sensory assaults that it is impossible to detach completely there."
WHAT'S NEW TO DO
A new way to experience how Indian royalty would live is the The Deccan Odyssey. A week-long train journey takes clients from Mumbai to Goa via the highlights of Maharashtra such as the Konkan coast and the World Heritage sites of Ajanta and Ellora. On a par with the Orient Express, the train has its own spa and Presidential suite, which costs from £300-£400 per person per night. www.maharashtra tourism.gov.in
Ramathra Fort is a luxury tented camp in the grounds of a restored ancient fort, situated between two of India's famous wildlife reserves, Keoladeo Ghana Bird Sanctuary and Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve. The fort has been in the family of hosts Ravi and Gitanjali Raj Pal since 1645 and they delight in showing the local area on foot, by Jeep safari or by boating on the lake, with its plethora of birdlife. www.ramathrafort.com
At Dera Amer on the outskirts of Jaipur, Udaijit Singh has come up with an eclectic mix of elephant safaris, cocktails and dinner evenings at his new farmhouse and colonial-style lodge and camp. Couples can take a private dinner for two, or a group can partake in the obscure traditional sport of elephant polo. www.deraamer.com
Ambati Greens Golf Resort, Coorg, in the southern state of Karnataka, is a colonial country club offering championship-class golfing facilities as well as a spa and activities for children. Guests can tee off amid lush valleys, coffee plantations, teak wood forests and mountains. Clients should also enjoy finding out if Coorg deserves its 'Scotland of India' tag. www.anantara.in
Billed as India's most luxurious river cruise ship, from January 2008, the MV Mahabahu will take the guests of its 29 deluxe cabins through the stunning eastern Himalayas. With its own spa and glass-framed viewing decks, the boat will take clients on week-long itineraries. Luxury suites start at £300 per person per night. www.farhorizon india.com
The first commercial ballooning enterprise in the Pink City of Jaipur began in November 2007. Two flights daily now leave from the Amer Fort area, with 11 passengers per balloon. A one-hour ride, including collection and snacks, costs £175 per person. www.efactor4u.com.
HOTELS
Charting the property developments in a country the size of a continent, which is developing as fast as anywhere in the world, is a daunting task. As money pours into the major cities, hotel projects quickly follow to feed unprecedented demand.
The main brands looking to become synonymous with luxury hotels in India - Taj (www.tajhotels.com) and Leela (www.theleela.com) - both have major upcoming investments. The 80 deluxe rooms of the Leela Palace Udaipur will open in winter 2008 beside the Pichola Lake, and the chain will venture into South Delhi by 2010 with a 211-room property, having secured one of the most expensive areas of real estate in the country. A total of 105 premium rooms with wi-fi and 42-inch plasma TVs have also been added to the Leela Palace Kempinski Bangalore.
Taj has refurbished the restaurant at its Rambagh Palace property in Jaipur. Another former royal residence - Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur, has been added to the portfolio. Taj has also recently launched its second luxury lodge at Baghvan in the Pench National Park, Madhya Pradesh. The 12 suites are styled with a 1950s retro theme.
The Oberoi group continues to strengthen its position, and its flagship Oberoi Udaivilas property in Udaipur routinely tops best hotel in the world surveys.
Four Seasons will be adding a 230-room property in Delhi in 2010 (www.fourseasons.com), while Westin Hotels and Resorts will be opening the Westin Hyderabad and The Westin Pune, Koregaon Park, in 2009, while The Westin Kolkata, Rajarhat, will open in 2010.
Projects outside major cities are also taking off. Open from October 2007, for instance, Singinawa Jungle Lodge (www.singinawa.com) offers a Central Indian jungle experience with tiger-watching opportunities.
This year sees what is set to become the world's most expensive hotel room. The Raj Palace, Jaipur, is looking forward to receiving its first guest (an unnamed Russian) in the £20,000 a night Shahi Mahal Suite. The property has also opened the world's first Gold Spa (www.rajpalace.com).
BEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE
SHAHI MAHAL SUITE, THE RAJ PALACE, JAIPUR
Why: Set to open in November 2008 after a 12-year refurbishment, this is, in effect, a dazzling private palace, with its own pool, and 24-carat gold jacuzzi.
Client fit: Billionaire recluses with regal taste.
Price: From around £20,000 per night.
Contact: www.rajpalace.com
PRESIDENTIAL SUITE, TAJ MAHAL PALACE AND TOWER, MUMBAI
Why: A slice of colonial excess, complete with authentic antiques and artwork, and a private balcony overlooking the UNESCO-endorsed Gateway of India monument.
Client fit: Stately old-schoolers or Bollywood newcomers with retro leanings.
Price: From £3,750 per night.
Contact: www.tajhotels.com
PRESIDENTIAL SUITE, THE LEELA PALACE KEMPINSKI, BANGALORE
Why: The 5th floor suite can seat 10 for dinner and has a host of state-of-the-art security measures.
Client fit: Security-conscious, dotcom high rollers.
Price: From £900 per night.
Contact: www.theleela.com
GRAND PRESIDENTIAL SUITE, TAJ MAHAL HOTEL, NEW DELHI
Why: A 10-room showcase of the colonial architecture of Sir Edwin Lutyens, who effectively built Delhi. Has its own library and is gadget-loaded.
Client fit: Technology-favouring traditionalists.
Price: From £2,500 per night.
Contact: www.tajhotels.com
KOHINOOR SUITE, THE OBEROI AMARVILAS, AGRA
Why: The pantry, private terrace and plush living rooms are just a precursor to the undoubted highlight: a bathroom that has views of the Taj Mahal.
Client fit: Diehard romantics.
Price: From £2,000 per night.
Contact: www.oberoiamarvilas.com
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Zodiac Grill, Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Mumbai
Chef details: Michel Nischan serves up all-organic haute cuisine.
Best dish: Tamari shrimp and scallops.
Best table: Those directly under the astral-themed skylight centrepiece.
Contact: www.tajhotels.com
FIRE, THE PARK HOTEL, DELHI
Chef details: Bakshis Dean prepares Rajasthani cuisine.
Best dish: Mainly traditional Indian favourites, but the Marathi crab and coconut curry is a highlight.
Best table: Any under the lights of the astonishing crystal curtain.
Contact: www.newdelhi.theparkhotels.com
BUKHARA, THE ITC MAURYA SHERATON HOTEL, DELHI
Chef details: A team recreates the 25-year-old award-winning north-west frontier cuisine - it's routinely voted in the top 50 restaurants in the world.
Best dish: The kebab platter named after former US president Bill Clinton.
Best table: Any overlooking the display kitchen.
Contact: www.starwoodhotels.com
TRISHNA, BIRLA MANSION, MUMBAI
Chef details: Rahul Akerkar, seafood specialist to the stars.
Best dish: Butter pepper garlic king crab.
Best table: Take your pick - guests come for the food over ambience.
Contact: + 91 22 2270 3213
ZEN, THE LEELA PALACE KEMPINSKI, BANGALORE
Chef details: Dim Sum Chef Huang Zhiwen.
Best dish: It's mostly East Asian here - Norwegian salmon teppanyaki grill.
Best table: Underneath any of the chandelier-bedecked archways.
Contact: www.theleela.com
BUYER'S COMMENT
Harmohinder Pal Singh, India Product Manager, Exsus Travel
There's something very special about the region of Kerala and its combination of a tropical climate, its rich cultural heritage and the wonderful cuisine that keeps me going back there again and again. Having worked there as a guide for two years, I soon fell in love with Kerala and it very quickly became home. Sure, the pristine, palm-fringed beaches are hard to resist, especially as I herald from the land-locked region of Punjab, but for me, it's the serenity of the backwaters that make this a unique destination. Here, you can catch fascinating glimpses of the village life as children run alongside your houseboat, farmers plough the fields as they always have done and cormorants dive for fish in the ocean. And don't get me started on the food! Keralan cuisine is some of the best in India and I still cook many of the recipes that I learned aboard those very same houseboats. The fishing port of Cochin is an especially intriguing historical city, and a great place to learn about the fascinating spice trade - a visit to a spice garden is also a must. Wildlife abounds, and I could while away an afternoon or two watching the elephants bathe, drink and play in the waters of the Idukki District. Kerala has a little bit of everything and now enjoys a choice of many impressive luxury hotels such as the Brunton Boatyard at Cochin, The Leela at Kovalam beach and the Marari Beach Resort, so you can experience the best of the state in five-star style. Even the backwaters have retreats such as Coconut Lagoon, which can only be reached by water, and the very comfortable rice boat cruises offer a true alternative to those looking for something a bit different. www.exsus.com
CLIENT Q&A
Sam & Kate Twine, Solicitor & dietitian and nutrition consultant
Which part of India did you visit, when and why?
We restricted our visit to Delhi, Agra and Jaipur (the Golden Triangle) and Udaipur. We visited India in October, when the monsoons have finished and the temperature is comfortable. We had promised ourselves that we would celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary by visiting the Taj Mahal.
Where did you stay?
We stayed at the Taj Palace Hotel (Deluxe Taj Club Room) and the Radisson Edwardian (Business Class Room) in Delhi, the Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra (Premier Room with balcony), the Oberoi Rajvillas in Jaipur (Premier Room), the Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur (Luxury Lake View Room).
How did you travel?
We travelled Business Class with British Airways to and from Delhi and were utterly spoilt. For our internal flights (Jaipur-Udaipur-Delhi), we used Jet Airways. We travelled by the Shatabdi Express train from Delhi to Agra and had a private car and chauffeur between Agra and Jaipur and in Delhi, Jaipur and Udaipur for all our sightseeing.
What was the most luxurious aspect of your trip?
The decadence and sheer luxury of our stays at the outstanding Oberoi and Taj hotels with their unbeatable service. We will always remember the views from our balcony towards the Taj Mahal (at the Oberoi Amarvilas) and our boat rides to and from the Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur.
What did you enjoy most about your trip?
We enjoyed spending time together and having our every need met by the ever-attentive hotel staff, the guides, our fantastic chauffeur and the Greaves Travel representatives.
Would you go to India again?
Yes, tomorrow if we could! We agree wholeheartedly with the adage that a trip to India is more than just a holiday - it is an experience. We enjoyed learning about the culture and history of Rajasthan and we were struck by the spirituality of this vast and inspiring land. We plan to return with our two children to another area of India so they can share our experience of India's sights, sounds and smells, the delicious food and its welcoming hospitality.
Where and when will you travel next?
Next Easter - a family holiday in St Lucia.
INSIDER'S GUIDE
Philip Hamilton-Grierson, Marketing director, Cox & Kings
I really love the area around the Aravalli Hills in southern Rajasthan. It's just a great combination of stunning countryside and hill scenery and the typical charm that you soon come to associate with the entire Rajasthan region. The most striking aspect is how intensely colourful it is, and when you encounter the people and the villages, you can't help but be struck by the beautiful saris and jewellery everywhere. It can also boast some of the greatest sights in the world. The Kumbhalgarh is one of the most amazing forts, and around 600 years old. It stretches across 36km of the Aravalli Mountains and is 1,100 m above sea level. Nearby Ranakpur has an incredible temple, the Jain Temple, which has something like 1,400 marble pillars and amazing domes and sculptures of snakes. It's this combination of remarkable things to see and the charm of the villages and rural life that keeps me going back. It does, of course, have its share of very excellent Indian food, though there isn't really a regional speciality. In terms of hotels, my favourites are the Deogarh Mahal, which is a superb palace that has been converted into a luxury hotel in the Rajsamand district, and The Devigarh, which is a colourful, trendy all-suite boutique property just outside Udaipur. The Deogarh is very traditional, the Devigarh is more glamorous. The last time I visited each one, I spotted a couple of famous fellow guests. At the former I saw former Conservative minister Kenneth Clark, and at the latter, former Manchester United footballer Eric Cantona, which perhaps gives you an insight into their character. Most people who visit this region, especially for the first time, concentrate on Udaipur, but for me it's the surrounding, lesser-known area. www.coxandkings.com
