The wonder of Venice

01-Jun-08

Teresa Machan discovers what attracts luxury clients to the romantic Italian city and how it's building its appeal.

There is no shortage of cities trading on their cultural assets, history and location, but few hit the spot quite like Venice. The world's watery museum seeps romance and grandeur from its Medieval bricks: A-listers such as former It girl Tamara Beckwith got married there last summer and multimillionaire, Ryder Cup hero Colin Montgomerie spent his honeymoon in the city recently. Whether clients visit to be stirred by history, literature, art or music, or simply to enjoy the emotional experience of the scenery, Venice rarely disappoints. One can't walk more than a few feet without tripping over a Titian, gilded Madonna or prized sculpture.

It's not a bad formula to start with, and with a diversifying hotel mix, coupled with some major refurbishments at key luxury properties, the outlook for luxury buyers looks bright. One notable change in bedstock is the slow but steady influx of boutique properties, many of them in stunning waterside locations. Bauer's latest offering, the Palladio Hotel & Spa on Giudecca Island, housed in a former convent, exemplifies the potential in Venice for tasteful heritage conversions (www.bauerpalladio.hotelinvenice.com). Design-conscious clients have a growing number of elegantly restored Venetian palazzos from which to choose, including the five-star Ca' Sagredo (www.casagredohotel.com) and the four-star Palazzo Stern (www.palazzostern.com). The Design Hotels group opened the contemporary and chic Palazzo Barbarigo Sul Canal Grande (www.designhotels.com/barbarigo) last autumn, and its third property in the city will open in July.

Meanwhile, Exsus is one of a handful of tour operators to join forces with Venetian hotels and cultural attractions to entice the luxury visitor with upmarket packages. Exsus' opera bundle combines a stay at the Hotel Gritti Palace with performances at the 19th-century Fenice Opera House, and include private tours of the theatre, interval cocktails and dinner at the Gritti's acclaimed Club Del Doge restaurant. Exsus Europe product manager Silvia Slotova describes Venice as a "quintessentially luxury destination", and says its enduring appeal has not waned in the face of increased accessibility to other European destinations.

"Venice has a very unique charm and quality that travellers will continue to seek out," she says. The autumn opera and ballet season kicks off with Verdi's Nabucco on 24 October and Swan Lake on 9 November, and those who truly want to arrive in style can charter an eight-seater private plane from £1,700 return.

Private concerts at the Basilica San Marco are also on the cards, at Venice's Festival of Music in November. Martin Randall Travel's programme includes eight private concerts, featuring Renaissance to Baroque period music, set in high-profile churches and palaces. The package includes exclusive admission to concerts, flights, four- and five-star accommodation, talks, receptions and dinners. A schedule of walks and visits led by art historians is also offered.

The real key to unlocking 'exclusive Venice', however, involves looking beyond the iconic attractions and getting under the skin of the city to discover those truly authentic 'insider' experiences, whether it's gaining access to a private sailing boat to explore the lagoon, taking a cooking class at a private Venetian residence or enjoying a personalised 'after-hours' guided visit of St Mark's Basilica that includes a grand, church-organ welcome.

Intercontinental Travel Company, which is hosting Maritz UK, Hotel Desk and Aegon in Venice this year, has all of these and plenty more tour and team-building opportunities tucked up its sleeve. "We offer everything from a Venetian mask-making class at an authentic laboratory to gondola lessons," says vice-president Alberto Neri.

WHAT'S NEW TO DO

Opera lovers can indulge their musical and cultural passions at the nightly Musica a Palazzo, which recreates the 'musical parlour' scenario in the delightful 15th-century waterfront Palazzo Barbarigo-Minotto. A small audience moves from room to room with the musicians, soaking up the splendour of the setting while enjoying La Traviata, The Barber of Seville, or a series of Love Duets. Tickets cost EUR40 (£32) (www.musicapalazzo.com).

Italian food aficionados can savour a true Taste of Venice in conjunction with the Bauer hotels Il Palazzo and the Palladio. The 'Cook with the Venetians' package features a full day's cookery class either in a family-owned palazzo or on board the Eolo Venetian boat, including excursions and cruising in the northern Venetian lagoon, plus an exquisite lunch (above) with Italian wines. Booking through Exsus. (www.exsus.com)

For the ultimate bird's eye view of Venice, tour the lagoon by helicopter and, later, enjoy a private dinner inside the Venice Casino surrounded by precious tapestries and artworks. Helicopter airport transfers are also available. Heli tours from £119 pp for 15 mins. Book through Evento Network. (www.eventinvenice.com)

Luna Hotel Baglioni and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection have teamed up to offer a limited number of VIP guests a guided tour of one of Italy's foremost art collections. Baglioni will also have access to the museum's roof terrace and gardens for private events, and the hotel will, in turn, open its doors for gala events organised by the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. (www.baglionihotels.com)

There's more to the Veneto than Venice and its canals. The Veneto region is rich in art, architecture and culture. Cricketer Holidays offers a six-day guided tour taking in Vicenza (the home of Palladian architecture), Mantova, Bassano del Grappa (the home of Grappa), Verona (with its Roman coliseum, used as an opera venue) and historic Sabbioneta. The tour also includes a night at La Fenice Opera House (centre) in Venice. Departures are in May and November. (www.cricketerholidays.co.uk)

Martin Randall is offering after-hours private visits to the Basilica San Marco (below), accompanied by an expert lecturer, on its Art History of Venice tour, from 9-15 November, for £1,690. (www.martinrandall.com)

Clients can learn about upmarket life in Venice by joining one of the most important noble families in Italy during lunch with the Countess. Enjoy a sumptuous meal with butler service while the countess brings a national monument 'to life'. Bookings can be made through IC Bellagio. (www.icbellagio.com)

HOTELS

- See and be seen at the all-new Bauer Hotel lobby, a contemporary and airy space formerly occupied by the boutique. In a prime corner location between Campo San Moise and a side canal, this 'window on the city' is a great place to indulge with a glass of Champagne (the B-Bar is a stone's throw away) while enjoying a snippet of Venetian life in Campo San Moise and watching passing gondolas drift by.

- The legendary Hotel Cipriani on Giudecca Island has completed phase one of a three-year renovation project, which includes 10 refurbished rooms and suites in the Redentore and San Giorgio wings, all with breathtaking lagoon views. The six luxury doubles and four exclusive suites feature high-spec bathrooms, and rooms feature Venetian artefacts, hand-made stuccos, Murano glass, antique mirrors and fabrics by Fortuny and Rubelli. As part of its Golden anniversary celebrations, the Cipriani is introducing a Luxe 24-carat Gold Facial to its Casanova Spa menu. Lingering in the skin for up to 28 days, the gold is said to help reduce premature ageing. And after being treated with gold there's the chance for clients to sip it too - the anniversary Golden Cip cocktail is served with a floating gold leaf (www.hotelcipriani.com).

- Design Hotels is due to open its third property in Venice in July. Tucked between two larger, canal-facing palazzos, the Palazzino Grassi Hotel and Residence takes its name from the neighbouring Museum Palazzo Grassi, and is a few minutes' walk from Piazza San Marco. Some of the 28 rooms and four suites feature private terraces overlooking interior Venetian courtyards; others have 'petit balconies' overlooking the Grand Canal (www.designhotels.com).

- A new boutique spa and covered swimming pool will open at the historic Danieli this autumn as part of the grand dame's EUR45m (£35.7m) refurbishment. The three-phase project will be completed in 2010, although the hotel remains open throughout. Guests can expect state-of-the-art technology and subtle art and architectural restoration at the palaces - the oldest of which dates back to the 14th century.

- The San Clemente Palace has introduced family suites to reflect the growing demand for family accommodation in the luxury market. The hotel will also host barbecue and pizza nights by the pool for children staying at the hotel (www.sanclemente.hotelinvenice.com).

BEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE

- SUITE DEL DOGE

Danieli

Client fit: Those in search of the ultimate view and a grand location - truly fit for royalty.

Why: The bedroom is furnished with antique furniture; pure silk covers the walls. The central chandelier is an 18th-century original Murano masterpiece.

Price: £3,310 per night including breakfast for two.

Contact: www.starwoodhotels.com

- JUNIOR SUITE (CANAL VIEW)

Bauer Palladio Hotel and Spa

Client fit: Honeymooners and couples.

Why: The mezzanine-floor bed has a magnificent view of St Mark's. The lower-level balcony is as romantic as it gets.

Price: EUR1,210 (£960) per night.

Contact: www.bauerhotels.com

- PRESIDENTIAL SUITE

Molino Stucky Hilton

Client fit: Would-be James Bonds, presidents and anyone out to impress (there are four bathrooms).

Why: The largest in Venice and set in a steeple. The second floor has a gym, hydro-pool, hammam and sauna.

Price: EUR1,200 (£952) per night.

Contact: www.hilton.com

- PRESIDENTIAL SUITE

Luna Hotel Baglioni

Client fit: Antiques dealers and lovers of the arts.

Why: Dubbed the Giorgione Suite, in homage to the Italian artist, the two-level suite features antique furniture, 18th-century carpets and art masterpieces.

Price: EUR3,300 (£2,617) per night.

Contact: www.baglionihotels.com; www.lhw.com

- HEMINGWAY SUITE

Gritti Hotel

Client fit: The rich and famous, sheikhs and sultans.

Why: The style is classic Venetian: Murano chandeliers, Italian marble, antique furniture and palatial bathrooms.

Price: £4,050 per night.

Contact: www.starwoodhotels.com

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

- ALGIUBAGIO

Fondamente Nuove

Setting: A tasteful, contemporary wood-and-brick style restaurant, with sweeping views across the lagoon.

Chef details: Alessandro Marangoni.

Best dish: Steak with chocolate and honey.

Best table: The Cantina table.

Contact: www.algiubagio.net

- FORTUNY RESTAURANT

Hotel Cipriani

Setting: Delicately blown glass, precious fabrics and amber-coloured mirrors plus magnificent lagoon views.

Chef details: Renato Piccolotto. Best dish: Carpaccio of beef with classic Cipriani sauce. Best table: Window table overlooking the lagoon.

Contact: www.hotelcipriani.com

- LOCANDA CIPRIANI

Torcello Island

Setting: Wood ceilings, terracotta bricks, copper pots.

Chef details: Renato Ceccato.

Best dish: Torcellana-style risotto and seasonal specialities.

Best table: Inside: a garden-view table; outside: any.

Contact: www.locandacipriani.com

- CENTRALE RESTAURANT LOUNGE

Opposite La Fenice Theatre

Setting: Venice's few lounge-style bar-restaurants.

Chef details: Bruno Ballistreri.

Best dish: Agnoli pasta filled with duck and walnuts.

Best table: On a small platform overlooking the canal.

Contact: www.centrale-lounge.com

INSIDER'S GUIDE: Andrea Grisdale, Chief executive, IC Bellagio

Venice is one destination where a stroll at dawn is well worth a loss of two hours' sleep. A walk through the heart of the city at 6am can only be described as magical.

Invest in a morning or afternoon with a guide to discover the hidden corners of Venice, such as silent squares, gardens and some of the most beautiful off-the- beaten-track churches.

Don't forget the islands. On our Islands Experience, we visit Torcello, Burano and Murano in four hours and conduct a tour of one of the oldest Murano glass factories.

Clients can recharge their batteries at one of my favourites - Cantina Do Mori with a quick glass of wine and local cicchetti (nibbles). For warm, old-worldly Venetian charm the Trattoria La Madonna is a must.

When it comes to shopping, glass products are the most popular. Burano lace is also abundant.

www.icbellagio.com

VENICE FACTS

When to go: Early spring (April-June) and autumn (September-November) is the ideal time to enjoy most of Italy's cultural cities.

Currency: Euro. £1 = EUR1.25 (at the time of going to press).

Time difference: GMT +1

International dialling code: 00 39

Flight time: Two hours

Getting there: BA, bmi, easyJet and Ryanair fly to Venice (Venice Treviso airport). The Venice-Simplon Orient-Express train also operates from London.

Health: UK travellers with a valid EU health card can obtain medical treatment at participating health centres/hospitals.

Electricity: 220 volts

Taxes: IVA (value-added tax) is added to goods on a sliding scale, and only non-EU citizens can claim it back. Look out for shops offering tax-free shopping for tourists.

INSIDER'S GUIDE: Heather Green, regional contracting manager for Venice, Citalia

I love taking the private launch from St Mark's Square to Hotel Cipriani on Giudecca Island (Elton John has a home here). Surrounded by immaculate gardens and a vast pool, the hotel offers an idyllic retreat in the heart of bustling Venice. Another favourite is the Danieli, which commands views over the entire lagoon. A sojourn in this living museum is guaranteed to make clients feel as if they've stepped back to 14th-century Venice.

For a relaxing aperitivo overlooking the Grand Canal, you can't beat the Bauer Il Palazzo. Boasting one of its highest terraces, (aptly named 7th Heaven), it couldn't be better placed.

When it comes to off-the-beaten-track exploring, I always recommend visiting the monuments, palaces and churches in the quiet and atmospheric Ghetto area. An early-morning visit to Rialto fish market is also a must. It's located at the heart of Venice by the ancient docks - a bustling area full of trendy bars and restaurants.

Jaw-dropping churches are ubiquitous in Venice, and one of my favourites is Santa Maria Glorioso del Frai, famous for paintings by Bellini and Tintoretto.

www.citalia.com

BUYER'S COMMENT: Janet Simmonds, director, Grand Tourist

Cutting through the waters of the Venetian Lagoon in a speed boat is really the only way to arrive in Venice.

Don't be fooled by Venice's historic heritage - this is a lively, modern city too, with boutique hotels and new restaurants springing up almost daily. The elegant, historic hotels The Gritti, Danieli and Cipriani stand alongside much more contemporary hotels such as the Palace Bonvecchiati and the brand-new Hotel Bauer Palladio (complete with wonderful spa).

Eating out in Venice is varied and exciting, too - from family-run trattorias such as Terrazza Somma Riva or tiny back-street bistros. For elegant dining you can't beat the terrace restaurant at the Gritti Palace, overlooking the Grand Canal. Out on the islands, clients can enjoy coffee and pastries at Locanda Cipriani on Torcello before heading for Burano, with its fishermen's cottages, lace-making and wonderful fish restaurants. Here clients will find Da Romano - a popular haunt of the rich and famous. I'd recommend art-loving clients head for the Frari Church or the Scuola Grande di San Rocco.

www.grand-tourist.com.