Bound for Beijing

04-Jul-07

Beijing is no longer a grey city in the Soviet-Mao mould; it's cleaning up its act in readiness for next year's Olympics. Chris Moss reveals all about visiting this major event.

Have your clients ever felt the buzz of mass expectation? The thrill of a city on the verge of something momentous? Beijing is getting ready for the biggest sports show on earth, but the 2008 Olympic Games are an embodiment of so many other changes afoot in China, and probably a prelude to a century in which the teeming capital city will become the focus of global business, tourism and politics.

Beijing was never the world's prettiest city, but it's changing, says Rachel Russell, marketing manager at CTS Horizons. "Running up to the Games, Beijing will be cleaned up. The Beijing Municipal Government has launched several local laws to change people's 'bad habits', such as spitting. Several new subway lines are under construction and, to make Beijing a clean and green city, trees and grass will be planted around the city and airport.

"I have also heard that all non-essential traffic will be banned and factories will be shut down during the Games to reduce the smog. Many more designer and high-end shops are being introduced and the low-end outdoor markets famous for selling (illegal) copies are now closed," she adds.

Beijing is no longer a gritty city in the Soviet-Mao mould. Market economics have shanghaied the capital - and it is buzzing with flash new apartments, towering office blocks, swanky restaurants and cocktail bars - and lots and lots of new cars on the gridlocked, 16-lane highways that wrap around the sprawling boroughs like asphalt chains.

Up to 550,000 overseas tourists and twice as many domestic visitors are expected to pour into the capital for the Games. Hotels are set to hike their prices by as much as 1,000%, according to leaked reports from Beijing-based tour agencies.

Russell also warns that it can be steamy in Beijing in August: "If people want to visit the Games, they need good walking shoes, bottles of water, a good map and a lot of patience. It's going to be tricky getting around and very hot." But worth it.

THE GAMES

When: At 8.08pm on the eighth day of the eighth month of August in 2008 the XXIX Olympiad opens in Beijing, the first Games on Chinese soil and an event that is being touted as transcending mere sporting competition and being of huge political and historical significance. With 10,500 athletes competing in 302 events across 28 sports, an unprecedented number of journalists and countless spectators due to descend on Beijing for the 17-day Olympic carnival, much of the ancient city infrastructure has had to be ripped out and rebuilt.

Tickets: The Beijing Olympics offer 1,345 ticket prices across 28 sports and 613 event sessions. Tickets to the opening and closing ceremonies are going to be especially tough to get hold of.

Russell points out that agents are experiencing difficulties: "At the moment, all the hotels are over-priced and some of the Beijing hotels are asking operators to block-book 30 to 50 rooms for the three-week Games period. This just isn't practical -and private transportation is also very expensive. I hope the prices will decrease over the next 12 months, then we can put together a competitive package combined with a tour of the country."

Events: Track and field events will be the most popular, but combining a holiday with the Games is by no means impossible, says Chad Lion-Cachet, chief executive at Sportsworld, the exclusive Olympics agent in the UK and Ireland.

"Beijing promises to be an Olympic Games like no other. We are seeing high interest from private and corporate clients, many of whom are keen to get their first taste of China. We expect the Games to be fascinating and challenging. On the one hand, China is using the Olympics to showcase its exotic culture and economic strength - it will put on the greatest show on earth. On the other hand, specific operating conditions such as unprecedented local demand and different ways of doing business mean that accessing ticket inventory and packaging the Olympic experience needs to be done officially."

Who sells tickets: Sportsworld sells the Olympic experience, though official sub-agents - agencies with a particular destination specialism (eg Asia/China) or customer base (eg high-end luxury providers) who commit to a number of Sportsworld "ground packages" and earn a sales commission, and can use the official Olympic branding; and through retail agents that buy Sportsworld ground packages at wholesale rates, then sell them at retail prices. Agents can sell their own flights and sightseeing tours, or buy into Sportsworld stock.

Those who can't get to the big events should pick a niche sport or one with a huge spectator capacity, such as football. Bear in mind everyone can watch the marathon, which takes place on the city streets.

www.tickets.beijing2008.cn

THE VENUES

There are 31 Olympic venues in Beijing, 12 of them new, the rest are existing venues refurbished for the Games. The main site, the Olympic Forest Park, is now the city's biggest green space - as well as acting as an ecological buffer to the city's pollution, the park will house the two showpiece venues: the National Stadium and National Aquatics Centre. Nicknamed the Bird's Nest, the National Stadium will seat 91,000 spectators, cost 3.5bn RMB (£230m) to construct and will host athletics, football events, as well as the opening and closing ceremonies. Designed by Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron, with input from Chinese contemporary artist Ai Weiwei, its structure contains 36km of steel and weighs 45,000 tonnes.

Dubbed the Water Cube, the National Aquatics Centre seats 17,000 spectators (6,000 post-Olympics), cost more than a billion RMB (£65m) to build and will host all of the swimming, diving, water polo and synchronised swimming events. Designed by Australia's PTW Architects, it is contained by a bubble-like membrane that allows in more light and heat than glass, resulting in a 30 per cent decrease in energy consumption.

http://en.beijing2008.cn

BEIJING OLYMPICS FACTS

- China is spending an estimated $40bn (£27.3bn) on a pre-Olympic makeover for Beijing: new highways, an extended underground railway system and a new airport terminal.

- Chinese authorities have suggested they will "shoot" clouds to dissolve them and thus bring about a rainless Games.

- Hong Kong is playing host to three equestrian disciplines: dressage, eventing and showjumping.

- Sailing and windsurfing events are taking place in Qingdao, which lies south of Beijing.

- The average temperature in Beijing during August is 77 degsF (25 degsC).

WHERE TO STAY

The rate at which hotels are arriving in Beijing means that by the time you read this several more are likely to have sprung up.

Look out for the potentially spectacular Park Hyatt, towering above the cityscape and due to open by the end of 2007. It will feature Beijing's highest restaurant and outdoor terraces and bars.

Marriot International will open a remarkable four more hotels by the Olympics, including the large, high-end Ritz-Carlton and JW Marriot. The new five-star Langham Place Hotel will also open in 2008.

Beijing cannot compete with Hong Kong for a proliferation of top-of-the-range properties, but several new and newly refurbished hotels stand out:

RAFFLES BEIJING HOTEL

33 Dong Chang'an Jie, Dongcheng

Client fit: Leaders seeking Imperial comforts.

Why: Built in 1901, it has one of the longest and most colourful histories in the city. Renovation has upped the luxury quota and added four restaurants.

Best room: Nine Personality Suites are beautiful.

Price: £250 single/double; £366 suite.

Contact: www.beijing.raffles.com

ST REGIS

21 Jianguomenwai Dajie

Client fit: Powerbrokers keen on palatial suites.

Why: The fortress in which politicians and business moguls can meet their opposite numbers.

Best room: These are the most expensive beds in town, but clients get a personal butler, top restaurants, the, low-lit Press Bar, vast 24-hour gym and big pool, and beautiful garden.

Price: £235 single/double; £287 suite.

Contact: www.stregis.com/beijing

INTERCONTINENTAL FINANCIAL STREET

11 Financial Street, Xicheng

Client fit: Slick service, sleek lines for the decor-lover.

Why: The interior is dark and contemporary.

Best room: Rooms look new and views aren't bad.

Price: £85 single/double; £229 suite.

Contact: www.intercontinental.com/icbeijing

RITZ-CARLTON BEIJING FINANCIAL STREET

1 Jingchengfang

Client fit: Traditional refinements for the cultured.

Why: Made its debut in 2006 after Condoleezza Rice checked in. Seeks to be as Chinese as possible.

Price: £261 single; £272 double; £424 suite.

Contact: www.ritzcarlton.com/hotels/beijing_financial

WESTIN BEIJING

9B Financial Street, Xicheng

Client fit: Pleasure travellers seeking personal service.

Why: Its 486 rooms follow the theme of earthy hues, arty decor, sumptuous beds and IP phones. Specialises in wellness treatments. Opened Jan '07.

Price: £72 single/double £144 suite.

Contact: www.westin.com

THE RED CAPITAL RESIDENCE

9 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng

Client fit: Young revolutionaries.

Why: The boutique trend is just arriving in Beijing -it boasts five themed rooms around a courtyard.

Best room: One named after a famous concubine and fittingly decked out in red. It oozes history.

Price: £76; £101 double

Contact: www.redcapitalclub.com.cn

SHANGRI-LA

29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian

Client fit: Will please all in need of green space.

Why: In the quieter NW of Beijing, it has a great reputation among business travellers.

Best room: Rooms come with complementary broadband internet. Guests rave about service.

Price: £121 single; £131 double; £172 suite.

Contact: www.shangri-la.com/beijing

INSIDER'S GUIDE - Kylie Organ, Planning manager (Orient, Australasia, Indian Subcontinent), Abercrombie & Kent.

My favourite place to stay is the St Regis Hotel, because it's located in the quiet and leafy green diplomatic area. It's a strange contrast to the rest of the city, yet close enough to the main sightseeing, including the Temple of Heaven where you can spend hours wandering around watching the locals play Mahjong and practise Tai Chi, ballroom dancing and calligraphy. It gives a great insight into Beijing life.

A natural mineral spring under the hotel feeds its Spa pool. Dine in the award-winning Danieli's (voted best Italian restaurant in Beijing) or try a private room in Celestial Court (6460 6688, ext 2460/2462) and feast on Cantonese delicacies.

Tour option: Abercrombie & Kent offers a Highlights of China tour from £2,279 per person.

WHERE TO EAT

ARIA

2nd Floor, China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang

Why: Quality and flawless service.

Typical menu: The lunch special is best deal in town.

Contact: +86 10 6505 2266, ext 36

BELLAGIO

6 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang

Why: Smart, airy venue serving Taiwanese dishes.

Typical menu: Migao (steamed glutinous rice flavoured with dried mushrooms and dried shrimps). Open till 4am.

Contact: +86 10 6551 3533

FACE

26 Dongcaoyuan, Gongti Nan Lu, Chaoyang

Why: Its laid-back, moody atmosphere with antique furnishings makes this the chicest place for a romantic date. Opened March 2007.

Contact: +86 10 6551 6788

GREEN TEA HOUSE

6 Gongtixi Lu, Chaoyang

Why: Global China translated into a restaurant-cum-cultural space: art exhibits and a cup of tea.

Typical menu: Elaborate mouth-watering fusion dishes and soothing Zen-style decor.

Contact: +86 10 6552 8310, www.greenteahouse.com.cn

LAN

4th Floor, LG Twin Towers, B12 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang

Why: Philippe Starck's wild design.

Typical menu: Mouth-numbing Sichuan dishes. Opened 2006.

Contact: +86 10 5109 6012

PEOPLE 8

18 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang

Why: Hip, dimly lit, surrounded by bamboo trees and with shafts of light peeping through, it makes you feel as though you're in an enchanted forest.

Typical menu: The food is eclectic - Italian salads, or sashimi in crushed ice in a huge ceramic bowl.

Contact: +86 10 6515 8585

THE WORLD OF SUZIE WONG

1A Nongzhanguan Lu Chaoyang Gongyuan Ximen, Chaoyang

Why: The first port of call for the international jetset and Hollywood VIPs, the Hong Kong opium-den-style venue is spread over several floors: a nightclub in the basement, divans upstairs and an open roof terrace in the summer.

Contact: +86 10 6595 5049

INSIDER'S GUIDE - Tom Pattinson, editor, Time Out Beijing magazine

The best place to hang out on a summer evening is Dali (67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng, 8404 1430), an excellent new restaurant in the heart of the old town (off Gulou Dong Dajie). It serves real food from Yunnan, and the open-air courtyard makes this an excellent place for a romantic date. However, for quality and value food, People 8 is still my first choice - its dark and moody, and the Chinese-Japanese fusion food is killer. For a drink, go to the Starck-designed LAN for sheer glam, Q Bar (Eastern Hotel, Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 6595 9239) for quality cocktails and Suzie Wong's for a dance.

The Peninsula (9 Jinyu Hutong, Dongcheng, 8516 2888, (www.beijing.peninsula.com), £186 single/double, £248 suite) fills all your needs and has perhaps the best five-star service in the country, but the brand new Hotel Cote Cour SL 70 Yan Yue Hutong, Dongcheng, 6512 8020, single/double superior £135, deluxe suite £174 (www.hotelcotecoursl.com) is stunning. Set in an old courtyard and with just 14 rooms, this boutique hotel has all the modern amenities, widescreen TVs, wireless internet and comfortable beds. Also, all the rooms are decorated beautifully, in typically stylish East meets West style with modern bathrooms to match.

For spas, I reckon that Zen Spa (8A Xiauuji Lu, Chaoyang, 8731 2530, (www.zenspa.com.cn) with its traditional setting and expert therapists, is the best.

For sightseeing, it simply has to be the 798 Art District. This is the true home of contemporary culture in China, filled with giant statues, contemporary art galleries, funky cafes and trendy shops. It is truly modern China.